The state of Uttarakhand, which is also known as Devbhoomi or the Land of Gods, is known for its stunning landscapes as well as for its rich cultural heritage, which has evolved over centuries. In this heritage, the role of traditional jewellery worn by the women is preeminent. In the hills of Kumaon and Garhwal, jewellery is more than just adornment; it is a symbol of a woman’s marital status, community identity, and spiritual well-being. Created by local artisans, which in turn take inspiration from the mountains’ flora and faunal life, these pieces reflect the very strong tie between the people and nature.

Neck Adornments: Symbols of Affluence

In Uttarakhand, the most iconic jewellery piece is the Guluband. This choker, which is a must-have for married women in the region. It has a distinct and practical design, which includes square or rectangular gold or silver panels called patti. What sets these panels apart is that they are not connected by metal chains but are instead sewn onto a soft velveteen band, which comes in deep shades of red, blue, or black. Available with a varying number of panels, which are usually put in odd numbers like 5, 7, 9, or 11, the Guluband is also known for its comfort and it is thought to bring good luck to the wearer.

Another very important neck ornament is the Hansuli. The name of this comes from the Hindi word for “collarbone” It is a stiff crescent-shaped torque that graces the clavicles. Unlike the flexible Guluband, the Hansuli is a single piece, mostly made of silver, although gold versions are seen. It usually is engravings of traditional designs and is worn as an amulet of strength and protection. Transmitted down through the generations, the Hansuli is a physical tie to family heritage.

The Timaniya is a standout in the field for its unique use of materials. This piece features a multi-strand torsade of small glass beads, which are mostly red and which in turn support a large-scale focal point. The pendant in this design is of three vertical gold tubes. Worn by married women, also, which in some cultures serves the role of a mangalsutra, the Timaniya is thought to bring about the health and longevity of the husband.

Wrist and Hand Ornaments

In the hands of women, the Ponchi is a staple jewellery piece which is very much at home in the Kumaon region. These are not what you would term average metal bangles, they are instead made on a fabric base, which in turn is very much like the Guluband. A soft red velvet strip forms the base for rows of conical gold beads or balls. These beads are placed in very precise alignment, which in turn creates a textural, geometric look. The Ponchi is tied with a cord, which in turn allows for an adjustable fit. Like other bridal items, it is very lucky and is a mark of a woman’s married status.

Facial Adornments and Cultural Legacy

A feature of traditional wear is the Bulaq, a nose ring worn in the nasal septum. While nose jewellery (Nath) is a common feature in all of India, the Bulaq is a standout, which is free hanging and very often decorated with very detailed geometric, floral or animal motifs. Though use of it has gone down in today’s urban setting, in rural areas, it is still a passed-down heirloom item that represents the strength and spirit of the mountain women.

While in the main we see Guluband, Hansuli, Timaniya, Ponchi, and Bulaq, which form the base of what is put together in traditional collections, but also feature the Nathuli (large nose ring), Pauje (anklets) and Karnaphool (earrings) in our repertoires. Although there has been an introduction of modern fashion into the picture, these traditional ornaments are still very much the heart and soul of the culture in Uttarakhand. They are more than just accessories; they are the golden thread that ties the present-day generation to their past ancestors and, in that way, preserves what makes the Himalayan people unique.